Along the Pamir Highway from Khorog to Murghab
My driver and I left Khorog around 7am for the 317km drive to Murghab. His English was about as good as my Russian, so our conversations were reduced to announcing toilet stops and lunch. But he was a very good driver. We gave a ride to an Israeli couple for the first two hours who started a 10 day trek in the Pamirs.
The road condition on the M41 (Pamir Highway) was way better than expected and for the next 300km we cruised along while admiring the scenery.
Pamir Highway (source: Wikipedia)
Also known as the Heroin Highway because of the amounts of drugs smuggled on the route, the highway was built by the Soviets to facilitate quicker movement of troops. It is the second highest altitude international highway in the world (going up to 4655m) – the Karakoram Highway connecting China and Pakistan is higher. Back in 2008 I traveled on the Leh-Manali Highway. While not international, it was significantly higher, going up to 5’328m.
Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway
Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway
Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway
Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway
“Pedestrians” crossing the M41
Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway
Early morning Khorog-Murghab on the M41 Pamir Highway
Public transport for people and livestock on the M41 Pamir Highway
Signboard on the M41 Pamir Highway
Ascending to the first pass on the Pamir Highway between Khorog and Murghab, the Koi-Tezek Pass (4272m)
Koi-Tezek Pass
Statue along the M41
Driving towards our lunch stop in Alichur
Driving towards our lunch stop in Alichur
The highest pass we crossed was about 4200 masl. We stopped briefly for pilav in Alichur in the middle of nowhere. It is really a harsh environment these people live in, even during summer. I don’t want to imagine what it is like in winter. We (there was a Japanese tourist driving in another car) talked to a young man from Alichur who spoke very good English. I asked him how they survive the winters there?
A thick jacket and some vodka will save your ass
After lunch we started seeing the first yurts – a sign of the increasingly Kyrgyz population
Yurt along the M41
Soon after we started passing about a dozen Chinese trucks
A very clear “pond” with fish along the M41. We were offered fish for lunch in Alichur but didn’t trust it… turns out, it would have probably been very fresh fish
And for my dear readers I also took an underwater photo
Another yurt
Continuing along the M41 Pamir Highway
Finally in Murghab
We reached Murghab at around 4pm. The town is not scenic at all. I doubt many tourists stop here for more than one night. Together with a Japanese roommate I set off to explore what little Murghab has to offer.
Entering Murghab
The bazaar in Murghab, made up of old containers
Murghab bazaar
Two Kyrgyz men (ethnic Kyrgyz but Tajikistan citizen)
Mosque in Murghab
Building in Murghab reminding me of Greek islands
Truck in Murghab
Locals playing volleyball in Murghab
Car in Murghab
Petrol station (obviously) in Murghab
Our destination for the next day, Osh. Another 417km of driving to Kyrgyzstan.
I initially contemplated spending two nights here but quickly made up my mind to continue the next morning bright and early.
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[…] the last stretch and I was was looking forward to a last, long day on the road. The scenery from Khorog to Murghab was great and I heard to Osh it would be even […]
[…] in Kyrgyzstan’s second largest city for a day or two. The drives from Dushanbe to Khorog, Khorog to Murghab and Murghab to Osh were all really special but I was done sitting in the car all day […]